May 12, 2008

Culinary Pilgrims Go.....

Beyond the Great Wall

Around here, when our culinary librarian Jonathan Milder swings into the kitchen with a new book, there is the usual flurry that accompanies a new toy in the playground. We try to take turns, taming our curiosity in the name of good manners. But sometimes a book captivates us beyond etiquette, and you'll often find one of us (in this case, me) protectively cradling a book, eyes pouring over the pages until we've consumed every devourable bit. Such is the case of our latest library acquisition, Beyond the Great Wall by culinary adventurers Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. A gustatory and photo journal of their travels through the culturally diverse lands that make up present-day China, it is a window into the cuisines of Tibet and Mongolia, Xinjiang , Sichuan, Yunnan and several other ethnic communities. This is the kind of book that moves your soul with such a force that you immediately cancel all your evening plans to stay home and cook Mongolian Hot Pot and Lhasa Yellow Achar (chutney) and Dai Grilled Fish for supper. There is no "I'll cook that someday" spirit about this, but rather a consuming listful urgency that says, "I must eat that now."

This isn't the first time Alford and Duguid have turned my culinary world upside down. I recall just as vividly my first few minutes with Hot Sour Salty Sweet (2000) their award-winning culinary journey through Southeast Asia. More recently, their book Home Baking took me on a magical tour from Thailand to Turkmenistan as flour, butter, sugar and eggs took on dozens of enchanting forms and flavors. Each of their books takes me to remote places I've only dreamed of visiting. And each page imparts ancient wisdom and technique, cultural history and highlights and most importantly a respect for the vast culinary landscape that makes up our globe.

For now, the closest I've come to the world beyond the Great Wall was a family feast hosted by the Tibet House down the street. I'd wandered in one rainy Tuesday evening hoping to join a beginner’s meditation class and instead found myself feasting alongside the peaceful people of the Tibetan highlands, and the American folks whose aim is to protect their culture. The meal and their company were rich with flavor, and though it was catered out of aluminum tins, it delivered lasting warmth that even the finest four-star restaurants rarely achieve.

It is that warmth that drives me back to the pages of Beyond -- to the delightfully inspired food, authentic but approachable through the world-class photos of Richard Jung, and to the stories and descriptions that make you suddenly adore not just the food, but everything about the peoples who created these dishes. We are worlds away, but kindred spirits in the human story.

Though those stories are often found in the simplest of dishes, they represent complex cultures, nomadic influence, traveling spice trails and an intertwining of cultures, religions, and ingredients in a fascinating culinary evolution. In the spirit of Alford and Duguid, I'll be searching for another piece of that story on my upcoming trip to Hungary, where the Mongol invaded in the early 1200s, and no doubt left a trail of tasty evidence behind.

Sarah Copeland, Investigative Culinarian, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 12:25 PM

May 9, 2008

Iceland Cometh

One weekend a month, I spend an entire weekend studying nutritional theories at the Institute for Integrative Nutrition. There, we learn all about micro- and macro-nutrients, modern diets (think Atkins) and ancient ones (think Aruveyda), probiotics, macrobiotics, antibiotics and just about every detail of the digestive tract. By the time we break for lunch we've spent so much time debating about what we should and should not eat that all I can think about is chocolate. Luckily, since we all know that chocolate with more than 70% cocoa solids is an antioxidant, it's not hard for me to convince myself that I'm doing the right thing.

On my last chocolate excursion, at Whole Foods, I picked up an extra bar for home--a double bar of Sirius pure Icelandic Chocolate, 70%. Tucked in my bag not to be opened later, the chocolate kept calling to me during class. I'd reach down and run my fingers over the silky pure white on white packaging, wondering how they make chocolate in Iceland (doesn't cacao grow south of the equator?), and what about it warranted the hefty price tag (around $6 a bar). Hours later, at home, I found out the how of why of it didn't matter at all--this chocolate was deep and rich, silky on the tongue and flavored with cacao roasted to peak perfection. As strange as it sounds, my favorite new chocolate has been made in Iceland for over 100 years.

Last night, while lingering over my last little bits of Sirius chocolate, I wondered what other dreamy things the people of Iceland were capable of creating (besides Bjork). The very next day, my newest kitchen colleague, Claudia Sidoti, broke out a creamy little pot of Siggi's Icelandic Style Skyr, or strained yogurt. She offered me a bite, which turned out to be a glorious version of the "custard style" yogurts I remember from the 1980s. So custardy was it, I could hardly believe its advertised zero grams of fat. Upon further investigation, I found out that it's been a staple of the Icelandic diet for over 1,000 years, and is made from the skim milk left after the cream has been skimmed for butter. The yogurt is then strained into a thick perfection that is not only fat free, but loaded with three times the protein of most conventional yogurts.

If those facts, and the 5 live active cultures it contains weren't lovable enough, Siggi's skyr comes in luscious flavors like Pomegranate & Passion fruit, is made from grass fed cows milk, contains no gelatin, preservatives or corn syrup, and comes with a neat little recyclable paper sleeve (since for some unknown reason plastic yogurt containers are still not recyclable). Now that is a lot to love. And did I mention it also comes in the same pure, white on white style packaging that could win both Siggi and Sirius design awards (okay, do they have a thing for "S" names in Iceland or something?)

Technically, the inspiration for the skyr comes from Iceland (Siggi's homeland), but the yogurt itself comes from New York State, where Siggi currently lives. In New York City, you can buy Siggi's at Saxelby Cheesemongers in the Essex Market, as well as Fairway, Eli's, Zaabars, and Murry's Cheese. Outside of New York, you can find Siggi's at some Whole Foods Markets, which apparently know a good Icelandic product when they see one.

As it turns out, I'm not the only one around here who has a thing for Icelandic delights. The Amateur Gourmet actually met Siggi, and had a lot to say about his yogurt, as did just about every other food blogger, and the New York Sun and...okay, am I the last person to find out about Siggi's skyr?

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 10:50 AM | Comments (1)

April 22, 2008

Green Thumb, Black Feet

I think it's high time we celebrate National Gardening Month! April is all about cultivating your green thumb, and a few vegetables. And since April 22 was christened Earth Day back in 1970, today is the perfect day to get out of the kitchen, and into the garden!

There's a lot of talk about greening these days, and in that could mean anything from riding your bike to work to eliminating paper towels in favor of cloth towels. But one of the most obvious greening solutions for a world that's ripe with information about global warming and food insecurity is to grow some of your own food. And it's easier than you think.

Last week, our fearless leader Susan Stockton brought in a tray of beautiful heirloom tomato plants to share. For all the excitement those little plants induced, you would have thought it was a tray of chocolate truffles, or even gold. All the gardeners suddenly appeared and lingered over their choices (cherry or big fat juicy tomatoes), shared advice on how and when to plant them and mused about all the things we'd eat them with when they mature. For a kitchen full of city folk, you'd be amazed at how many gardeners are in our midst.

My own little piece of land rests in Clinton Community Garden in midtown, where for five years running I've tested my green thumb out on every organic or heirloom variety vegetable I can get my hands on. And that kind of enthusiasm can get, well, a little wild. In the kitchen, I like things in neat rows--spices arranged alphabetically, fruits gathered in bowls and kitchen tools and towels in coordinating colors. But in the garden, I'm a wild woman, throwing seeds here and there, seeing how much I can grow in my precious 65 square feet of land. Farmer's call that biodiversity (and it's quite good for the soil). I call it savage, and good clean fun (well, if you like dirt). I don't read gardening books, or know if my terroir has bragging rights (but it is 100% organic). I rarely stake or trellis, and let my veggies climb along the rich black soil like unruly children. I don't know the difference between annuals or perennials, and I regard the mystery of what the Spring will unearth each year with the same delight that new parents have for the sex of their unborn child. If I have any garden wisdom at all, like where to lay mulch or sprinkle sand or burry egg shells, it came from trial and error, and the generous tips of fellow community gardeners. I just dig and plant and toil until I emerge, with black feet (from the organic compost) and a big smile, ready to spring back into city life until the weekend comes again.

Since not everyone has a sweet little plot of land to dig in, an Earth box, the ultimate container garden, takes the green thumb (and the black feet) out of the equation. The all-inclusive indoor or outdoor system can double the yields of regular container gardens with half the water and a quarter of the work. And as if growing your own food and conserving water wasn't green enough, they even have an organic version.

If your style is more black thumb and clean feet, consider shaking hands with a local farmer on a deal that's good for both of you, and the environment too. Join a local Community Supported Agriculture group, which lets you pre-pay a farmer for a seasonal share of locally grown fruits, vegetables and in some areas flowers, eggs and meat. Joining a CSA eliminates the middle man, which means the farmer gets paid the best prices, and it keep the other green stuff in your pockets too, since you're not paying someone to ship your produce across the country in refrigerated trucks. And since you've all heard of carbon footprints, I don't have to tell you what that means for the environment, do I?

Happy Earth Day!

Sarah Copeland, Urban Gardener, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 7:43 PM | Comments (1)

April 14, 2008

One-Dollar Dish on Good Morning America

At the Food Network Kitchens, we live for the joy in getting folks to cook more (and better) at home, and we have great fun doing it. This year that goal has been challenged by the soaring costs of food worldwide. And when the rise in basic commodities (like milk, eggs and cereal grains) are raising as many alerts as rising fuel costs, we all have to fight even harder to preserve our basic right for common access to delicious and nutritious food at reasonable prices.

Although the average American family may not be feeling the hit just yet, food inflation presents a major threat to the 12 million children who are already at risk for food insecurity in the US. That is exactly why we're dedicated to our partnership with Share Our Strength and their fight to end childhood hunger in America in our lifetime. And it's also why we perked up when Good Morning America called and challenged me to cook a delicious three-course meal using only ingredients from the 99-cent store.

In general, you'll always find me (and my colleagues in the kitchens) touting fresh, seasonal and local products whenever possible. I value relationships with local farmers and fish mongers, artisanal cheesemakers and bakers often above the extra pennies I could save buying somwhere else, because those purchases help to preserve a food culture, a community and an agricultural landscape that has tremendous value to the health of our society. But the way I see it, if I am going to buy canned tomatoes or beans that have been shipped across the country to my grocer's shelves, why not get them for the bargain price of 99-cents? And what if I put the extra pennies I saved in a jar in my kitchen, and gave them to Share Our Strength at the end of each month? And, what if a few other people got the same idea...

So, I accepted the challenge. The segment, which aired yesterday Good Morning America Weekend edition, follows Andrea Canning and me to a 99-Cent store in central Manhattan to search out the best bargains we could find. Then we went back to the Food Network Kitchens to cook both low cost and luxary versions of the same dish. In the end, the high end versions won the live taste tests, but since the dollar-store dinners were a close second and the savings was over $80, I think I'll take a few of my own tricks to heart in my home.

If you decide to take the challenge and hit your local dollar store, here are a few things to consider:

Always check sell-by dates on all products, just as you would in the regular grocery store. We didn't find anything that was expired in our local 99-cent store, but it never hurts to check!

Watch for dented cans, which may disturb the safety of the ingredients. Most stores will take these right off the shelves, but never put your food safety in someone else's hands.

Look for ingredients that are minimally processed and pack the most nutritional bang for your buck! Shopping at the dollar store doesn't need to be trip to the junk food hall of fame! Canned tomatoes and beets are packed with nutrients and antioxidants. Frozen vegetables retain most of their vitamins, and yogurt and nuts are healthy protein options that won't break your bank or clog your arteries!

Since most dollar stores don't sell fresh produce or herbs, use healthy products with big flavors like V-8 juice, which has the aromas of celery, onions and tomatoes all in one can (plus loads of essential vitamins)!

Check back in for more details on rising food costs from our culinary research expert Jonathan Milder. In the meantime, take a spin through your local 99-cent store (on your way to the farmer's market, of course). I bet my bottom dollar (or at least 99-cents) that you'll be surprised at what you find!

Sarah Copeland, Dime Store Diva, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:47 PM | Comments (2)

March 26, 2008

Shirley Says

As National Nutrition Month comes to a close, I couldn't waste this opportunity to hear from our nutrition expert, Shirley Fan. Here is a Q &A about what she's thinking, reading and struggling with (since nobody's perfect) when it comes to nutrition:

Q. IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT'S AMERICA'S BIGGEST NUTRITION MYTH?

a. Without a doubt, the most popular question I get is if carbs are bad. Carbohydrates are not inherently bad. They are our primary energy source and are necessary for a myriad of functions such as brain function and metabolism. Unfortunately, as a residual effect from the Atkin's craze, people still think eating carbohydrates will lead to weight gain. Of course, one can lose weight by cutting out carbohydrates or anything else in their diet, but it’s not sustainable in the long-run. Like I say for everything else, moderation is key.

Q. WHAT IS THE ONE THING YOU WISH PEOPLE WOULD DO FOR THEMSELVES (NUTRITIONALLY SPEAKING) EVERY DAY?

a. I have a couple things in mind, but most importantly, I wish that people could sit down and really enjoy and savor the food in front of them. We live in a really hectic world where things move at a frenetic pace and eating sometimes becomes an after-thought. I spent three weeks in Italy one summer and discovered how differently the Italians valued and viewed their meals. I noticed that some people allocated time in their day to sit down, without the distractions of a computer and tv, and have a meal. This enabled them to really look at their food and taste. By tasting their food, they were more satiated with what they had and did not have cravings for a snack an hour later. I know we're all juggling a thousand different things at a time, but we should try to slow down and devote at least one meal a day with friends and family and away from our desks.

Q. WHAT HEALTHY FOOD CAN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

a. It's hard to single one out, but I really love sweet potatoes.

Q. WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL NUTRITION OBSTACLE?

a. I think there’s a saying that you either eat to live or live to eat and I’m definitely in the latter category. I absolutely love food and am always looking forward to my next meal. The biggest obstacle with that is being aware of portion sizes and knowing when to stop. It’s especially hard at work because there’s always good (and sometimes not so healthy) food around and sampling can cumulatively become a meal. I always have to remind myself that the next bite won't be as delicious as the first.

Q. WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT FUNCTIONAL FOODS?

a. Functional foods are a really hot nutrition trend right now. There is no legal definition of them, but generally speaking, they are foods that have a potential health benefit beyond basic nutrition. Some biologically active components of functional foods may enhance health or protect one from diseases. Examples are antioxidants in fruits and vegetables, fiber in whole grains, omega-3 fatty acids in fish, and live cultures in yogurt. Because interest in health has increased, food companies are pushing to market their foods as functional foods or producing foods with beneficial components more than ever. I find the influx of functional foods on the market to be an interesting phenomenon. Though I appreciate the emphasis on healthy foods, I would still caution people to be wise about their food choices. Some functional foods are essentially junk food injected with vitamins and some are unmodified whole foods like blueberries or nuts. For optimal health, it's best to stick with plenty of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, low-fat dairy, and lean protein.

Q. WHAT IS YOUR DAY TO DAY LIFE LIKE AT THE FOOD NETWORK?

a. It really depends on what projects are going on, but generally I analyze recipes for nutritional content for shows and special projects. I also write scripts and talking points for shows, and report on stories for an in-house newsletter about health and nutrition.

-SC

Posted by Food Network at 5:20 PM

March 17, 2008

Rise & Shine

Happy St. Patrick's Day! As an Irish gal, I know soda bread and corned beef ought to be top of mind, but all I can seem to think about today is Hot Crossed Buns! Ok, it's not that far fetched, Good Friday is just a few days away, which means you might want to start thinking about those sweet toothsome little buns too! Why? Because they are just about the best little bun around.

Historically speaking, hot crossed buns have been linked to everything from pagan offerings to the Christian crucifix. But though similar little cakes were thought to be eaten around Spring celebrations even by the Ancient Greeks, we may have the Tudors, specifically Queen Elizabeth I, to thank for to linking them to Easter, due to her law that forbade their sale any other day (except Christmas).

Luckily for us, we can bake them anytime, so why not get started? What's the matter--you afraid of a little yeast? Don't worry, we've labored over this recipe so you don't have to. They even passed the Erik Pinkston test. Erik, a student at the Culinary Institute of America and our most recent test kitchen intern, had never made bread in his life when I put this recipe in his hands. Not only that, he has a classic baker's handicap -- warm hands -- which can make kneading dough a sticky situation. Still, with a little help from an old baker's tip* he turned out bun after beautiful bun that none of us could resist.

So what do sweet yeasted buns have to do with good health? Traditional foods, often eaten around the holidays (religious or otherwise), feed the spirit and the soul--and that's good nutrition too!

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens


*If you're like Erik, and the thought of making fresh bread makes your palms sweat, keep a bowl of ice water and a dry towel by your side. When things get sticky, plunge your hands in to cool off, then pat them completely dry before kneading.

Posted by Food Network at 10:45 AM | Comments (1)

March 14, 2008

Hot Tamales

One day last winter, I was walking up what was then a deserted section of 10th avenue in Manhattan. The wind was whipping, and as usual, I was underdressed for the weather. Hatless and gloveless, I hugged the side of the building as I pushed onward. Suddenly around the corner came a steaming little stainless steel cart, pushed by small man with a shining, smiling face, skin browned by a sun I hadn't seen in weeks. I didn't care what he had inside--I wanted some. When he opened the trap door on the top of the cart, one whiff gave it away--Hot Tamales. At $2 each, I bought two and hurried myself to the nearest door stoop to devour them. I opened the scorching plantain leaf to reveal a pillow of spicy-sweet masa stuffed with tender pork and hot green chili sauce. Suddenly my blood rushed with a rich, warm sensation and I sighed into the feeling like a suckling child.

I have since regarded the tamale man as my guardian angel---the one who saved me from both starvation and hypothermia on the same day (okay, so I tend to be dramatic). In the last year, he has appeared before me less than a handful of times, but each time he warms my spirit and my belly in the most nourishing way. I've never thought to ask him his name, always distracted by the decision between pork or chicken, and fumbling through my wallet to see if I have enough dollars to bring a whole bag full to my colleagues upstairs -- but to me it is his face, warm and inviting, gracious and generous, that I'll never forget.

Today, as I rushed into work from the lingering winter outside, tamales came to me from another angel, my coworker, Liz Tarpy. She didn't know my history with the tamale man, but it didn't take her long to recognize her gift was more than just breakfast. We shared the tamales over a guiltless conversation that oatmeal makes a mighty fine and nutritious breakfast.
But some days, nothing but a hot tamale will do.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 10:46 AM | Comments (2)

March 13, 2008

Food for Thought

Health is hot on the radar of every journalist, parent, teacher, and medical professional, which has brought to light plenty of phrases and quotes that ignite and inspire my desire to keep the conversation going. Some of my favorites come from journalists, like Michael Pollan (author of In Defense of Food and Omnivore's Dilemma) who said "Eat Food. Not too Much. Mostly Plants" and doctors, like Dr. David Katz from Yale University School of Medicine and ABC News' Medical Contributor, who says "Love the Foods that Love you Back!" Their statements just make good sense and are great, simple reminders to pay a little more attention to what we put on our plate. Lately, some of this food for thought has been coming from surprising sources, such as companies that are better known for their snack products than their efforts on wellness. Just today I flipped open to a magazine page posing the question,

Your heart does a lot for you. Shouldn't you Return the Favor?

Great point. The source -- Whole-Grain Sun Chips, part of the Frito-Lay Corporation. Some of this may just be good marketing, but since we know that giving up packaged goods is a stretch for some lifestyles, I'm encouraged by companies who acknowledge that efforts to put health first are long overdue. Still, I urge you do your own research. Learn to read nutrition labels, consider the serving size and investigate what all of those health claims (like 0 Trans Fats) really mean before you dig in. And knowing what's really in your food is so important, because as Kashi says,

Everything that goes into food, goes into you!

Now that's a motto I can get behind, especially since their website supports their efforts toward a healthy lifestyle by offering trustworthy nutrition facts, tips on how be active and where to find your local farmer's market. Even better, they are another company (like the Food Network) that supports Share our Strength's efforts to get healthy food into the hands that need it most.

Of course there is a one surefire way to do your body good--cook your food yourself from fresh, whole ingredients. That's the only way that you can be sure that the food your putting in your body is pure, healthy and natural! And giving up all of that packaging could do wonders for the environment as well. Which poses the question,

The planet does a lot for you, shouldn't you return the favor?

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 9:59 AM

March 12, 2008

Step Right Up

You've all seen the Food Pyramid right? Think back to 8th grade health class. And if you're nutrition or news savvy, you probably know the Pyramid had a makeover not too long ago, and was revamped as MyPyramid, with a broad strokes makeover aimed at individualizing nutrition for a highly diverse audience (that's us folks, the US of A). Still, nutrition experts argue that the Pyramid has its flaws--it doesn't distinguish between a healthy grain (namely, whole grains) and every other grain (white bread), doesn't explain which fruits and vegetables are the most nutrient rich and has a debatably high recommended intake of dairy. There is not a lot of talk about healthy fats (avocado, olive oil, coconut oil and the omega-3 fatty acids found in fish like salmon, herring and sardines) versus unhealthy fats (like margarine and other trans fats, which promote heart disease) in MyPyramid, and it's still not encouraging more fish and beans as healthy protein alternatives to a nation whose cardiovascular systems are paying the price for an abundannce of red meat. But for all the marks it misses, it's trying to catch the general public up to speed with the leading research, starting with the little figure stepping up the side the pyramid, reminding us that exercise is an integral part of the whole equation.

But a simple pyramid has a long way to go to answer the question what to eat -- the question that decades of conflicting nutritional literature and an overdose of fad diets has made increasingly difficult to answer. Because what we should eat is highly personal and no two people's bodies require exactly the same formula of nutrients to thrive. Recommendations for what to eat should take into account our age, sex, level of physical activity, family health history and so much more. That's why MyPyramid earned big points today by launching a Menu Planner function that's a good start toward planning meals that fulfill your individual daily requirements. It allows you to plug in your name, age, weight and activity level and save your settings to start building weekly menus that help you reach your nutrition goals (or at least the recommendations the USDA sees fit). Best of all, you can add a tab for each member of the family to make sure everyone gets a shot at optimal health!

After all, health is the greatest wealth, goes the saying.

For more on What to Eat, check out Dr. Marion Nestle's book by the same title, along with her blog that aims at keeping America nutrition-wise! Nestle, Professor in the Department of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health at New York University, is my nutrition guru, and the most honest source I know. She's also a saint for going after all of the laws*, policies, companies and propaganda that prohibit American's from attaining the ultimate nutrition that is not only our birthright, but should be our constitutional right as well. But in the end, it's really up to you. No one's forcing you to eat those French fries, and a little planning ensures that you don't need to resort to desperate measures.

Remember, you are what you eat, so plan well, eat well and be well.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

* Dr. Nestle fought tirelessly along with dozens of other for the New York City Health Department to ban trans fat in New York City. Thanks to those efforts, my city banned trans fats back in 2006 and should be completely trans-fat free by this July. Throughout it all, I love Nestle's ability to explain why (in terms that don't require a Ph.D or an M.P.H.) banning unhealthy ingredients like trans fats, which are still found in fast food chains and packaged foods all over the nation, can have major health benefits for the whole lot of us!

Posted by Food Network at 12:19 PM | Comments (1)

March 7, 2008

Head to Tail

When one gets invited to a Head to Tail Dinner, there are things to be considered. First, there is the matter of pride (can I hang with the big dogs?). Then there is judgement. If one declines, there is talk of a weak spirit. If one accepts, there are consequences. In the case of a Head to Tail dinner prepared by Chris Cosentino (of The Next Iron Chef fame) and presented by Michael Ruhlman (renown author on all things "chef"), there will be offal, and lots of it.

This week in New York's Astor Center, David Mechlowicz (our Culinary Purchasing Manager) and I faced the consequences of our bravado -- a menu that included beef heart tartare puttanesca, fritto of honeycomb tripe with picholine olives and marjoram, Crostino of salt cured pork heart, and porchetta di testa with radish and pecorino. And those were just the "Bits and Bobbles."

Having already had an offaly good time at Cosentino's restaurant in San Francisco recently, I wasn't sure how much of the "forgotten meats" one person could handle in a year. Afterall, there may be a reason they were forgotten. But I didn't want to tarnish my reputation among my fellow diners, including the Amateur Gourmet who was likely to call me out on his web show The FN Dish if I didn't put on a good show. But after a few bites of the porchetta di testa (some deliciously unknown part of the pig), I was acting no more. This food was incredibly flavorful. There were a few mishaps, like the abundant portions of trotters (pigs foot) and a modertately over-zealous beef tendon salad, but in general my appetite only increased as I ate. By the time a plate of venison liver crudo (as in raw) with crispy sugar beets and juniper balsamic landed before me, I was genuinely beguiled. My enthusiam was rallied just in time for a huge portion of whole roasted spring lamb neck, a cut of meat usually tossed aside for the leg or chops, which was cooked low and slow until the meat melted like butter under it's crackly crust. Served with a healthy dose of roughly chopped parsley and freshly grated horseradish, it delivered on flavor and satisfaction in a way I'd almost forgotton was possible.

I'll spare my vegetarian readership the remaining details (such as how exactly Cosentino got candied cockscomb to taste like a blood-orange gummy bear), but you can get some live action on Grub Street's video feed. Back here in the kitchen, we'll put our offal affections on the back burner and continue to cook up the playful and widely lovable recipes you've come to expect from us. But we can't help but take inspiration from industry super stars when it comes to family meal (ie. lunch). This week we tried our hand at lamb's neck, cooked for 6 hours at 200 degrees, which became a tender filling for soft tacos on homemade tortillas (thanks David), grated radish and pepperjack cheese. Don't worry, we're professionals--our stomachs are built for this stuff.

Nutrition Note: In honor of National Nutrition Month, offal fans will rejoice to know that liver is an incredibly high source Vitamin A and iron, and rich in a unique array of B vitamins, folic acid and trace minerals such as copper and zinc.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 4:42 PM

March 5, 2008

Mr. McGee to the Rescue

At last, a scientist who understands my devotion to the cephalopod. Leave it to Harold McGee, dependable, devoted food scientists who's book On Food and Cooking has answered many a culinary query, to come to the rescue again. Sort of. To Cook and Octopus, he says in today's New York Times, "Forget the Cork" and use a brine of salt and water, or better yet, cook the octopus in his own juices. But even he admits that those techniques, which render Octopus tender or flavorful, don't produce the revolutionary results he remembers from Greece. And so for Mr. McGee, as for me, the search goes on.

Nutritionally speaking, ours is a worthwhile quest, since like many sea creatures, octopus is high in protein and low in saturated fat, and also delivers on Niacin, Zinc, Iron, Phosphorus and Copper. Watch out for the cholesteral though---it just might get stuck on you.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 12:16 PM

March On!

I just learned that March is National Nutrition Month, which is great news because nutrition is the focus of much of my reading, and good health top of mind whenever I set foot in the kitchen. But sometimes we all get distracted by those clever pats of butter and heaping bowls of comforting carbs. So, instead of putting any of the delicious subjects I'd started to write about this week on a diet, [including lots of whimsy about everything from hot crossed buns to haute hot dogs], I'm going to share them with the greatest pearl of good nutrition in mind:

Everything in MODERATION.

In the meantime, I continued to be inspired by the many articles, inventions and adventures that aim at making good (ie. good for you) food fast, including a healthy street food venture in Washington DC called On the Fly, which pushes its way into the artery-clogging streets of urban life to brings fresh, local food to the people.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 11:08 AM

March 3, 2008

Southern Fare with Green Flair

Down in the Carolinas, it seems you can't drive a mile without passing a Bojangles, Churches Chickens or a Lizard's Thicket. While I admit fried chicken is good eatin, it certainly presents challenges to the 9-A-Day ( 9 to 12 servings of fresh fruits and vegetables a day) model that I subscribe to. Since I was there to help support a fundraiser for the University of South Carolina's Center for Colon Cancer Research, the importance of fresh fruits and vegetables to the local diet seemed even more poignant.

So, after 12 fruitless hours in the South, I decided to make a quick pit stop at a supermarket to stock up on some of the green stuff. I came across a market called Earth Fare, where bright, beautiful, organic and natural produce dominated. The in between aisles, which nutrition experts usually recommend shoppers avoid (you know, the ones with lots of pretty boxes, excess sugars and false health claims), were lined with simple, natural products that looked more like food than like toys, which I consider a very good thing. I could have spent hours in those aisle, examining the locally sourced Swiss chard, which was bursting with color and life, and jarred green tomato soups and butter pickles made just up the road a piece. I thought I had found my own personal Eden.

It wasn't until I got home that I realized my bounty had been packed up in plastic Wal-Mart bags. I was confused, so I called Earth Fare to investigate. When I asked the clerk who answered if they were part of the Wal-Mart Corporation, she answered with an ethusiastic "No way Jose!"

She then proceeded to tell me that my groceries had been package in a recycled bag as a part of their Friends of Earth Fare campaign. The Campaign partners with local charities and non-for-profits to collect plastic bags to be recycled as grocery bags. The effort not only helps to save our landfills from an overdose of plastic bags, Earth Fare gives back 10 cents per recycled bag to the charities and non-for-profits who provided them, which added up to almost $55,000 last year! Good will for the earth, and the community? Now that's what I call southern hospitality!

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 3:37 PM

February 29, 2008

The Big Nasty

I've been thinking about an oyster roast and shrimp n' grits ever since I wrote about my last trip to South Carolina almost a year ago, so I'm headed back to Charleston this weekend for another dose of Southern Cooking. Lest grammatically sensitive folks find offense in my haphazard capitalization of Southern Cooking, consider the fact that the foods of the south are a truly remarkable sort, and a subject worthy of entire museums, alliances and a series of tomes entitled Cornbread Nation.

Gourmet magazine's January issue was the most alluring homage to Southern Cuisine I've seen yet. Their tribute to Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock, and dozens of luscious spreads dedicated to baked eggs and biscuits, fried chicken and collard greens has me practically heading for the land of buttered beans for good. For anyone who grew up with even a little southern bone in their body, it's hard to listen to reason, like cholesterol, goals of a girlish figure and all the best-intended efforts at moderation. At my grandma's house in southern Missou-rah, [which us Northerner's considered the South], my favorites were hot biscuits and sausage gravy, fried chicken and cherry cobbler. But since my time in the South is scarce these days, I appreciate the spirit of the Big Nasty, the Hominy Grill's answer to having it all--a fresh buttery biscuit topped with a fried chicken breast and a mess of gravy. Now that's just one sweet tea away from heaven!

Have a great weekend, and y'all come back now, ya hear?

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:20 PM | Comments (2)

February 25, 2008

South Beach

I just got back from the South Beach Food and Wine Festival, where the flavors and sushine were abundant! I was there to emcee the Kidz Kitchen, and not only intro the six amazing chefs who cooked live for the kids over the course of the festival, but to share a little message about our Food Network partnership with Share our Strength. It was great fun getting the crowd of enthusiastic mini chefs up and dancing to the tune of

I'm off to teach another Operation Frontline class in just a few minutes, but I'll be back Monday with some more great scoop.

Meanwhile, while I nurse my sunshine withdrawl, I'll tell you a few of my favorite things from South Beach:

Best Thing I tasted: Zak Pelaccio's Smoked Fat Burger made with smoked fat back and ground beef, served with a shot of whiskey cocktail (clearly Zak did not hear my Kidz Kitchen talk about good nutrition, but he makes excellent "in moderation" foods!)

Best Thing I learned: By a stroke of luck, I ran into Mark Ladner, who shared that his secret to his succulent octopus is multiple tenderizing techniques, including beating and cooking with a cork!

Favorite Demo: A tie between Guy Fieri and Giada De Laurentiis in the Kidz Kitchen. Guy's energy and chemistry with the kids was second to none, but a very pregnant Giada answered questions about everything from how she got on the Food Network to what she'll name her baby with her usual grace and charm!

For live footage from the festival, check out what the Amateur Gourmet had to say about it all!

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:26 PM

February 14, 2008

Stuck On You

There is something about octopus that always makes me feel like love. It wouldn’t have seemed so when I first tasted the eight-armed creature back in the second grade when my classmate, brought in cold Korean-style octopus for show and tell. When I stepped up to taste, the texture was so foreign, and the flavor did nothing to quiet my concerns that the suctions would get stuck onto the inside of my cheeks. The experience was memorable, but not in the way a food wants to be remembered. Let’s just say it wasn’t love at first bite.

Years later, at a dinner with Japanese delegates from the UN, my hosts "treated" me to a bowl of baby octopi, heads and all. Like an ill-matched pair on a blind date, we stared at each other awkwardly, the octopi and I, until etiquette necessitated I eat them in their entirety. It's quite possible the experience hurt me more than it hurt them.

Several years later, the cephalopod waved its flirtatious arms my way again, this time more successfully, at a dinner prepared for me by my dear Valentine. An adventurous eater who’d spent several years near the sea in Spain, my Valentine and I shared a deep affection for edible sea life. When he placed the octopus before me, its deep purple skin glistened through the generous layers of olive oil, lemon juice and parsley, and I couldn’t resist. It was delicious— tender, juicy, and meaty in a way I’d never thought seafood could be. Although I had never attempted to cook octopus myself, I'd heard the storied techniques for tenderizing that ranged from beating it with a rolling pin to cooking it with a cork. I saw my Valentine’s success as valiant--like wrestling a bear in the wild. So infatuated was I that I didn’t think to ask for details about how he’d prepared it, or where he had bought it, or why he had gone to all of that work for just two itty bitty perfect portions. I was in love.

Several months later, during a Central Park picnic with my Valentine, he produced a Spanish tin of pulpo aceite de oliva (Octopus in Olive Oil), a lemon, and a set of toothpicks. He pulled the tin back the pop-top handle, halved the lemon with his well-worn Opinel knife and squeezed the juice that quickened into the oil as an impromptu dressing. Not being in the habit eating foods from a can, I was skeptical, but still amorous, so I partook. With one bite I knew I’d been blinded by love---this canned octopus had the same succulent tenderness as the “fresh” octopus I’d tasted at his house. I should have known that my Valentine had more suave than skill. It didn't matter. I was in love.

And that’s how I got stuck on octopus. Like every good love affair, it’s had its ups and downs, but there is always something new to discover. At the hands of many a chef, I’ve had octopus in paella and ala plancha, hot and sizzling, grilled and charred, sushi style and Spanish style, simple and sublime, but I've never tackled the beast in my own kitchen. Maybe it’s the endless hours of beating and braising, seasoning and saucing that are required. Or perhaps it’s the posture of the octopi lining the streets of Chinatown. Or perhaps I just didn’t love it enough.

Last week, in a fit of Valentine’s nostalgia, I ordered Grilled Octopus with Fagioli Diavoli Beans and Cavolo Nero at Del Posto, Mario Batali’s Italian Mecca across the street from our kitchens. It was captivating—skillfully charred and curled on top of earthy braised greens and buttery beans. Leave it to Mark Ladner, the man behind the menu at Del Posto [you may know him as Batali's utterly succinct sous chef on Iron Chef America], to create such simple goodness. Having worked with Mark during the taping of Iron Chef, I considered peeking into the kitchen to ask him his secret—perhaps it was finally time to try my hand at cooking octopus myself? But then again, the tin can is just so convenient, so fast, so sneaky!

This week, I came across a jarred version of Pulpo, and decided to give it a try on some dear friends from Spain who recently moved to New York. As a token of love, I made them a meal with all the flavors of home---sardines with pimenton, grilled Branzini (Mediterranean Sea Bass), slow cooked lamb in Rioja, Manchego cheese, and of course, "braised" octopus with lemon and parsley.

“Mmmm, Pulpo!” They said with delight as they dove into the glistening plate of octopus.

I beamed. They didn’t ask how I’d made it so tender, or where I’d hid the remains, or which local fishmonger I preferred. And like my old Valentine, I didn’t tell. Maybe that’s the secret to love.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 11:48 AM

February 5, 2008

Fat Tuesday

Around here we'll accept any excuse to indulge, including Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday in English. To me, Fat Tuesday means pancakes, and lots of them. Out of an awe and respect for the resilient spirits of the folks down in New Orleans, I feel compelled to pile them on high tonight, chez mois (my place) and surround myself with good friends and gaudy beads. But for Jake, who keeps us all in groceries and supplies, Mardi Gras means homemade freshly glazed chocolate donut, courtesy of an all-star Emeril Recipe. Here's his first attempt (not bad!) which he proudly displays along with Mardi Gras beads given to us by New Orleans' White Boot Brigade, an innovative group of shrimpers that have helped to rebuild the Louisiana Gulf Coast and it's seafood industry by keeping their sweet, succulent and sustainably raised shrimp on the minds and the menus of America's top chefs.

Whether you're eating shrimp, donuts or pancakes tonight, here's wishing you all a fat celebration! Go easy, Chinese New Year is just around the corner!

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 4:48 PM | Comments (1)

January 23, 2008

High Heels and Meatloaf

I've got a bit of a reputation as an old fashioned girl, so when I found out I had to develop classic retro desserts recipes, it wasn't hard to for me to get in the mood. I started by getting in costume, with a little help from my Grandma's vintage apron collection, and both my grannies' spirit for the kind of simple, home-made sweets that lured family members from far and wide. Then I hit the history books and meditated on the life of Donna Reed.

The trip down culinary memory lane is a lovely one, beautifully paved by mid-century cooking tomes. They evoke an era that changed the American culinary landscape forever. Gone were the highly technique-based pastries brought over from Europe, and in their place emerged a slew of truly American desserts invented on our own soil by women in high heels and swing skirts. Okay, I’m generalizing a bit, but I find this image so charming that I once wrote a short-story about that called High Heels and Meatloaf. But when it comes to the embodiment of retro renaissance, I admit I have a few strikes against me. For starters, I'm more often seen sporting a ponytail than a coiffed bob, and what's worse, I disdain meatloaf. But I vow not to let that hold me back!

And as always, I'm taking my colleagues along for the ride. A week of retro-centric conversations in our kitchens has provided a window into our collective childhood that is utterly unifying. In all of our reminiscence, the same desserts keep showing up over and over again—Ambrosia, Peach Melba, Tapioca Pudding, Jell-O, Junket, Grasshoppers, Red Velvet Cake, Banana Pudding and Chiffon Pies. But the question remains-- What exactly does retro mean?

Food historians define retro as anything from the 20s to the 70s, but within those decades there dozens of sub cultures and categories. Retro desserts spring from the sort of packaged sweets made popular during war time as much as they come from soda fountain culture. They include slab pies and other farmhouse favorites, as well as classic regional specialties like Charleston's famed Lady Baltimore Cake. And one can't forget the iconic desserts from the pages of Sunset magazine 40 years ago, or the menus of institutional restaurants like the Brown Derby in 1960s Hollywood.

The truth is a retro dessert is any dessert that gets people talking about old times with the kind of wink and sparkle you don't see every day. And, to truly be comprehensive in my research, I’d love to hear just what kind of old-fashioned sweets make you wink and sparkle.

In the meantime, I better put away my apron and step out for some air. All this nostalgia seems to be weakening my stance on meatloaf.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 12:40 PM | Comments (6)

January 14, 2008

It's All in How You Stack It!

For years I’ve had a secret and very un-American culinary confession—I do not like sandwiches. In fact, I seem to lack the sandwich gene entirely. The same creations that send my colleagues racing to the lunch line, like cold meatloaf sandwiches or roast beef on rye, make me twitch with discomfort. And don't even get me started on wraps—they make my teeth squeak!

This has been my truth for as long as I can remember. Like any kid in the seventies, I ate my Oscar Meyer, but never on bread. And I adored peanut butter, but ate my Jiff straight from the jar, a habit I paid for in dearly in adolescence. So when I ate not one, but two incredibly delicious sandwiches this week, I was so unarmed that I began to travel back in time, sandwich by sandwich, to study every aspect of what I didn’t like (soggy bread, gloopy mayo, slippery meat). Out of those bland detail emerged 10 GLORIOUS SANDWICHES, the sum of which stacked up just may alter my opinion of the humble sandwich forever.

10 Glorious Sandwiches

1. Double Stack Peanut Butter and Jelly, Honey and Banana Sandwich:
Three slices of Wonder Bread (what else?) layered with a generous slathering of peanut butter, Smuckers' Grape Jelly, honey (from the bear), and sliced bananas. (It was my first experiment with excess. I still remember the way the bread gummed up in the roof of my mouth, and that it took at least three glasses of milk to swallow every bite!) [Home, Rockford, IL; circa 1984]*

2. Applebee's Club House Grill:
Toasted and buttered white bread with sliced ham, turkey, mayo, tomato and a sweet generous slop of barbeque sauce. [Anywhere, America; circa 1990]

3. The Turkey Tom:
Crispy white bread with soft interior bread removed (fascinating) and stuffed with crunchy, shredded iceberg, thinly sliced tomatoes, turkey and mayo. [Jimmy John's Gourmet Sandwiches, Madison, Wisconsin; circa 1993]

4. The Veggie Stack:
Fresh seven-grain bread smothered with hummus, sliced cucumber, shredded carrots and sprouts (This one justifies at least two cookies for dessert) [Mary's Market, Rockford, IL; circa 1996]

5. My first Bánh mì :
Vietnamese pate, pickled carrots, cilantro and daikon radish on a French Baguette (This cost exactly $2 and kept me full for 2 days) [San Francisco, CA; circa 1999]

6. Culinary School Chocolate Sea-Salt Sandwich:
A Tom Cat baguette drizzled with high quality olive oil, a sprinkle of sea salt and slabs of bittersweet chocolate (inspired by the late nights and low-budgets of me and my fellow culinary students). [Institute for Culinary Education, NYC; circa 2001]

7. Jambon Buerre :
A 2-hour old baguette slathered with French butter (salted, of course), and deli ham. (Simplicity perfected!) [Sandwich Cart, Paris, France; circa 2002]

8. Fried Fish Sandwich:
Line caught fried fish, with spicy mayo and cole slaw on Hoagie roll. (Best eaten under a coconut tree!) [Unknown Beach Shack, Caribbean; circa 2005]

9. The Veggie Rueben:
Tempeh, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on a soft roll. [Northeast Kingdom in East Williamsburg, NY; January 2008]

10. Cambodian Num Pang (Sandwich):
Ginger rubbed-peppercorn catfish with shallots, pickled carrots, cucumber and chili mayo on sweet Portuguese bread [Kampuchea, Lower East Side, Manhattan; January 2008]

No matter how you stack it, I'd love to hear about it. Send me your favorite or freakiest sandwich creations!

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

*dates signify the original date and location of my first tasting. Many of these sandwiches are still alive and well (some in multiple locations) and available for consumption today!

Posted by Food Network at 9:46 AM | Comments (8)

January 9, 2008

Blubber Ice Cream?

I scream, you scream, we all scream for....Blubber Ice Cream? Well, not exactly, but this weekend, while studying native diets in my nutrition course at the Institute for Integrative Nutrition, I learned that the native diet of Alaskan Eskimos included not only a substantial amount of whale, seal or walrus blubber (or fat) but the original Eskimo Ice Cream, was made from it! Eskimo Ice Cream, called Akutaq (pronounced agoodik), was traditionally made from sweetened whipped blubber and wild berries (with a few other unsavory ingredients such as fish liver or dried salmon eggs). These days the natives make akutaq out of crisco, sugar, dried fruits and frozen berries, but it's still a far cray from the creamy vanilla ice cream encased in rich dark chocolate we know as an Eskimo Pie.

Either way, I always thought the idea of Eskimos eating ice cream was quite strange. Who wants to eat ice cream in the middle of artic weather? Apparently kids do. In fact, kids will eat ice cream in just about any weather. As my niece Gracie says,

"Who wouldn't like ice cream?"

She's quite right. So in the spirit of the Eskimos, my nieces, Kate and Grace, and my nephew, Benjamin spent many hours in the back yard surrounded with 2 feet of snow, filling their igloo kitchen with snow popcorn, snow pie, snow cake and of course, snow ice cream! The snow popcorn, and snow pie (cut into 8 generous wedges, I might add) required a bit of imagination, but good ole' Granddad was quick to point out that snow ice cream is very real, and produced an old recipe for one made with freshly fallen snow mixed with sweetned milk!

Before you wag your finger like an old grumpy neighbor ("don't eat that snow--it's full of dust!"), go outside and plop back into some freshly fallen snow. Flap your arms and legs back and forth (yes, you're making a snow angel) then turn your head to one side, stick out your tongue and gather up a moutful of fluffy whiteness. MMMMmmmm.

One health nut pointed out to me that snow ice cream is also low-fat. I think he may have missed the point.

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 9:12 PM | Comments (4)

January 4, 2008

Resolutions

Seeing as New Years is the best time for resolutions, it seemed only Kosher that I declare my Food Bloggers Resolutions publically here. Yes, I realize it's already January 4. That fact, and the full disclosure that I'm writing this at 5:55 on a Friday might tell you that my first resolution is NOT

do not procrastinate

In a kitchen procrastination is not such a bad thing. On the contrary, with time wines age, teas steep, banana breads ripen, flavors blend, berries macerate, sausages cure, meats rest, cookies cool, breads rise, and doughs chill. In short, in the kitchen, many things get better with a little patience. Likewise, I am full of ideas, stories, and recipes, but quite often, they just need to macerate a bit. On that note, I will make only one resolution:

I vow to write you funny, informative and entertaining bits about all things food. I vow to have fun exploring all the plump and juicy details of every daikon, dragon fruit or dill pickle I come across. I promise to never leave you behind when I learn about a new product, ingredient, or method and to tell you about all of my kitchen triumphs and failures (yes, they happen here too) with utter delight.

I vow that I will make life more edible

and strive to inspire Americans to head back to the table, the garden, the farm and the kitchen so we may all be happier, healthier and perhaps a little less plump (but just as juicy).

Resolutely yours,

Sarah Copeland, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:23 PM | Comments (2)

November 6, 2007

Offaly Brave

When I made reservations at Incanto, the Next Iron Chef contender Chris Cosentino’s San Francisco restaurant, I had heard only of Cosentino’s skill, which kept him in great company during the intense tests to weed out the great chefs from the greatest chefs. I knew that he finished a challenge of speed, which included de-boning a chicken, filleting a whole salmon, and shucking six oysters and six clams all in under 15 minutes. But I hadn’t yet heard that he dared to serve tripe for dessert. Had I done my research, I would have known about his reputation for offal cookery. Afterall, his website is called Offal Good.

Instead, I arrived at the restaurant, two innocent friends in tow for what we thought would be a simple Italian-American market based meal. What we found was calves brain, liver ravioli, and tuna heart.

For a chef, there is a certain amount of honor in being able to eat from nose to tail. Chefs in New York have long tested the limits with cocks comb (at Casa Mono) and liver toast (The Spotted Pig). I ate it all with unabashed enthusiasm, until recently, when I unofficially joined the growing network of Friends of Vegetarians (you know-- we date, hang, or dine with vegetarians so much that we adopt certain aversions by osmosis).

At Incanto, our server cheerfully guided us through the menu and finished her presentation exactly where I feared she might.

“The Calves Brain is exceptionally good, but let’s see how you do, because the chef has a couple of extremely special dishes he wants to send out to you,” she said.

I was intrigued, but fighting an inner battle. Just days before I had answered a staff questionnaire that ended with the question “What food won’t you touch?” My answer came easily—brains. I had made that mistake only once, at La Tour d’Argent, the famed Michelin three-star restaurant in Paris, and paid for it dearly. It was a truly rare experience for my parents and I, and everything was exceptional— every amuse bouche better than the next. But I had eaten my fair share of lovely food all over France, so when it came time to order, I pushed myself to try something new. Calves brains. IF anyone could make calves brains delicious, surely it was a Michelin three-star chef, I reasoned. No one flinched at my choice, as if it were unremarkable to eat brains for lunch on a summer afternoon, and I felt secretly proud to have established myself among a respectable class of extreme eaters.

It turns out that brains, even at a three-star restaurant, have a great deal of, to put it delicately, texture. Some might call it slimy. I’ll just call it interesting, and not for me. My pride quickly turned into guilt. How foolish to take such an expensive risk! I ate only one bite, my father a second, and then that brain sat there mocking me, a reminder that sometimes it’s okay to just eat what you really love.

Back at Incanto, I had no idea what my companions would make of a mouthful of brains, so I felt we had made a narrow escape. I knew Rob to be adventurous, but Devon had firmly proclaimed herself a cautious eater. She had already passed on the miniature gift from the kitchen, slice of hard cooked egg with piece of sardine fillet, because it smelled “too fishy.”

But when a chef sends you a plate of something he has created just for you, you smile and accept graciously, even it smells fishy, or feels slimy, or in this case, has the distinctive shape of rabbit ears. We were gifted with a plate of Crispy Rabbit Ears with Carrot Aioli and another piled high with Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Pig’s Trotter and Applewood-Smoked Bacon.

Devon was otherwise engaged with her Guwuerztraminer and a delicious plate of radicchio, shaved pecorino and bitter honey when our server described the dishes. By the time she looked up, our server was gone. Rob and I smiled at each other, wondering how long it would take her to catch on.

“What’s this?” Devon asked.

“Fried Rabbit," we said in unison.

“It's delicious,” Rob said, leaving no room for argument “like chips and dip.” Devon bought it.

I ate with feigned gusto, but kept my thoughts to myself. While I certainly get the enthusiasm for frying all sorts of parts into crisp cracklin-like chips, there was a certain cartilaginous quality that was just a bit too reminiscent of the pork knuckle soup I’d had in Indonesia, or the chicken feet I ate on a dare in Chinatown. Still, there was no denying, as far as rabbit’s ears go, these must be as good as it gets. Fried golden crisp and matched with a full-flavored carrot aioli, the dish was too clever not to take delight in.

"Just exactly what part of the rabbit is this?" Devon asked.

"Ears," I said in a hushed tone.

Silence followed.

The other plate was outrageously delicious. Seared foie gras and sweet gelatinous pig’s trotter (pig’s feet) melted into each other, offset by the smoky sweetness of the bacon. Rob and I ate so enthusiastically that Devon began to feel she might miss out. Again, she asked for a description.

“Foie gras and braised pork,” I said.

Technically, the pig’s trotter was braised pork, so I felt vindicated in my omission of the minor detail that the pork in question was actually foot.

After a few cautious bites, she declared it delicious.

“Congratulations, you just ate pig’s feet,” I said with a hearty slap on the back.

She polished off the bacon, gingerly eating around anything she didn’t recognize. She left the flavorful Spaghetini with Tuna Heart to Rob and me as I waxed poetic about a time when clever cooks found ways to use just about any part of the animal. It reminded me that for most of us, our meat comes in neat packages on supermarket shelves. For my parents, who grew up on a farm, meat was an all day affair, involving butchering, smoking, freezing and rendering the fat over a fire for days to make lard. These days we’re happy to get protein in a package that excludes responsibility to an animal that once had a heart, a liver, feet, or even ears.

In Cosentino’s case, I think it is as much about the shock value as is about a good meal (witness the photo of him holding innards on his Web site), but I applaud his subtle sustainability--- not wasting the gifts that each part of the food chain has to offer. And it works. In the end, even Devon declared it her best meal to date in San Francisco.

Over desserts and coffee, Devon asked, “What is the weirdest thing you ever ate?”

“Rabbit’s Ears!”

Rob agreed.

“But,” Devon stammered, “you acted as if rabbits’ ears were an everyday thing to eat!”

For some people, in some time, it probably was. I reminded her that weirdness is relative. Still I wondered what the strangest thing Cosentino ever ate was.

When he joined us later, he told us it was sea cucumber, but in the same breath name horse among his favorite meats.

“I’ll eat anything,” He said. “I want to die eating food---it’s what I do, it’s what I live, it’s what I breathe.”

Last Sunday night on the Next Iron Chef, Cosentino and the other two finalists flew to Paris to make dinner for 20 guests at the home of the American Ambassador to France. Among the guests was the owner of La Tour D’Argent, home of the brains. The judges, including Michael Ruhlman decided his fate—and Cosentino’s bravery cost him his title. I was sorry to see him go. I would have loved to see what he could accomplish in Kitchen Stadium. Judges, fans, bloggers, and even Iron Chef contender Michael Symon (who is still in the running) have lots to say about his performance, but watch for yourself. It’s an awfully good time.

Sarah Copeland, Offal Good Eater, Food Network Kitchens

P.S. For more on brains, check out Cosentino's blog.

Posted by Food Network at 7:23 PM | Comments (1)

September 18, 2007

Bees without Borders

By now you all know I love a good farmer's market. So you can imagine my delight when the Greenmarket of New York opened a new market that I can practically see from my kitchen window (if not for poor post-war architecture). So last weekend I spent hours hovering around the market stalls which were literally buzzing with activity, in particular, the activity of about 3,000 busy bees that Andrew Coté, of Andrew's Local Honey had brought with him to draw attention to his wares.

Although New York hardly seems like a healthy habitat for honey bees, the Union Square Green Market also boasts a beekeeper who keeps his hives on Manhattan rooftops. But as unlikely as it sounds, Andrew reminds me that wherever there are flowers, honey bees will survive and thrive. That was the inspiration for his burgeoning non-profit, Bees without Borders, which sets up hives as small business opportunities to help alleviate poverty around the globe. Andrew and his father have already begun teaching the art of beekeeping around the world, from their home in Norwalk, Connecticut to Nigeria and Iraq. And who better? His family has been keeping bees since the 1800s.

Beekeeping runs in my family too--My Uncle Henry raised bees in central Missouri, and I recall the pleasure of the oozy honey over my Aunt LaVonne’s hot buttered biscuits. Later, when I became an active gardener at the Clinton Community Garden on 48th street in Manhattan, I tried my hand at beekeeping with the community hive, but my enthusiasm came about at the same time as a death of the entire colony.

But as my uncle Henry always said, “I don’t make honey, the bees make honey.” So, I'm letting the bees do what they do best, and I'll continue to create the demand that keeps them in business. As an active honey-eater, I count all unfiltered acacia and eucalyptus honey among my favorites (which taste lovely on a buttery croissant with a cup of hot chocolate, particularly in Paris!). And I continue to seek out honey culture wherever I travel, like in Bulgaria, where I took this shot of simple jarred honeys on a roadside stand.

Since I’ve got bees on the brain, I was pretty excited to learn that there are more beekeepers in Hungary than in any other European nation---which is good news since I’m heading there today. If you’d don’t hear from me in the meantime, I’ll be busy making Mézeskalács (Hungarian Honey Cakes) or rolling strudel or drinking Tokaj, but I promise to come back with some great stories and recipes.

In the meantime, here are four great reasons to love the honey bee: one Local honey can help boost the immune system and alleviate allergies. two Raw (unheated) honey is an excellent source of antioxidants. three Albert Einstein once attributed the health of the human population to honey bees, since more than 1/3 of all food humans consume is thanks in large part to their labor. four Honey bees must travel a collective 55,000 miles, or twice the circumference of the earth, to collect enough pollen for one pound of honey.

Sarah Copeland, Busy Bee, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 6:58 PM | Comments (2)

September 14, 2007

Doesn't That Just Butter Your Grits?

As every good Southerner knows, grits are good for you! Witness the slogan on the sides of buildings all over the south, like this one on the Hominy Grill in Charleston, South Carolina. But grits, which are a key ingredient in our Caramel Peach Upside Down Cake, seem to be just about as controversial as any famed North-South struggle. We've been amazed and amused by the passionate reviews, both positive and negative, for this cake! I'd say the Southerner's are winning---the recipe has been rated number two on the Food Network's top ten recipes for weeks! But it got me thinking, love 'em or hate 'em, grits are a loaded subject.

I remember the first pot of greasy grits I encountered in Atlanta, Georgia, where my youth group was rebuilding the walls and rooftops of family houses as a part of a work camp. Home renovation was hard work, but as hungry as I was, I just didn't get the goodness in that steamy bowl of grits. Ten years later, in New York of all places, grits started to appear on menus everywhere. So I did what every good culinary sleuth would and did my reading before I got my taste buds involved.

I quickly learned that grits are a cousin to both polenta and cornmeal, which I'd been eating for years. Corn (be it white, yellow or blue) is first dried, then stone milled, and finally sifted and classified (as grits, polenta or cornmeal) by how finely it is ground.

I had a chance to apply my new knowledge of grits that same year, while working as a private chef in St. Tropez. Grits was one of three ingredients my employer, a Southerner, actually flew in from the United States to France. Eager to be an equally sound investment, I committed myself to grits cookery, hoping to wow the family with shrimp and grits (made with fresh langoustine from the Mediterranean), grits porridge congee style with chicken and scallions, and cheese grit soufflé. I fell in love with the quick cooking, satisfying staple, but loved them best the old fashioned way—enriched with cheese, or doused in butter and maple syrup for an indulgent breakfast.

But baking with grits is a whole other story, since there is far less liquid to soften the dry grits during baking. My colleague Mory, a Texan, has a way with grits, and cornmeal for that matter, imparting the snappy texture and corn flavor into everything from pizza crust to pie dough to our beloved upside down cake. I love the structure and mouth feel of these dishes, but they had to grow on me. After all, grits are, well—gritty, a texture I’ve learned not everyone is comfortable with. Since it’s the texture that takes some acclimation, try substituting a finer cornmeal for the grits in this recipe before all the peaches hibernate for the winter.

And if that doesn’t butter your grits, you ought to at least know that both grits and polenta have sustained thousands of families all over the American South and Italy, and is still a staple in Africa today, which earns them a certain implied respect. Once again, the South Carolinians said it best:

"Given enough of it, the inhabitants of planet Earth would have nothing to fight about. A man full of [grits] is a man of peace" [The Charleston News and Courier, 1952]

Sarah Copeland, Honarary GRITS (Girls Raised in the South), Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 3:39 PM | Comments (2)

August 27, 2007

Behind the Scenes Exclusive

I have to admit, it took me a while to realize I had a dream job; After all even a kitchen job has its The Office moments. But just about the time the Fine Living network showed up to film me for their television series I Want Your Job , I had figured out that I do have a dream job -- my dream job! It incorporates all of the things I love: good eats, creativity, hospitality, photography, comraderie and the playfulness I never quite outgrew.

The team at Fine Living caught a lot of that on film, which you can see this Sunday night. I'll take you with me on a typical day in the Food Network kitchens (which is anything but typical), where you can see my colleagues and me developing recipes, food styling and working behind the scenes on Iron Chef America!

Here are the details:

I Want Your Job
• September 02, 2007 10:00 PM EST
• September 03, 2007 1:00 AM EST

Check your local listings for additional air times and dates.

Thanks for all of your support!

Sarah Copeland, Recipe Developer, Food Network Kitchens

P.S. I share the spot light with a Hydroplane racer, so as much as I count the extra (hundred) calories of my job an occupational hazard, I think he wins in a risk throw down!

Posted by Food Network at 6:10 PM | Comments (3)

August 21, 2007

Life's a Jubilee

As summer drifts away, I already feel nostalgic for the tart cherries I was eating by the handful just weeks ago. As a child, I loved to pick cherries with my graddad in his front yard in Houston, Missouri. My siblings, cousins and I would perch ourselves on the branches of his cherry trees and pick bowl after heaping bowl that my grandma would turn into a steaming cobbler. Ever since, cherries seem to symbolize simpler times.

Just as the season began back in June, I snapped this photo that I keep on my desk to remind me of summer, and a day when nothing could distract me from making the perfect Cherries Jubilee. Said to have been created by Escoffier for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887, the recipe appeared in his 1903 Guide Culinaire. It has since appeared in everything from Larousse Gastronomique to the Joy of Cooking.

Not only is it the most clever little recipe ever created to highlight a cherry's rich simplicity, you can feel pretty darn good about eating it too, since cherries contain potent antioxidants (like anthocynanins and melatonin). Never mind the heaps of vanilla ice cream it's poured over---it's calcium, right?

On a bike ride through the farmer's market this morning, I had to face the fact that cherries are long gone...but I wonder what a little flambe would do to an apricot? Sounds like a jubilee to me!

Here's to celebrating summer's end with something delicious!

Sarah Copeland, Jubilant Stone-Fruit Eater, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:57 PM | Comments (2)

Oysters and Pearls

With Labor Day just around the corner, I hear a lot of talk about clambakes. I'm game for just about any outdoor feeding frenzy, but when it comes to seafood, I'll take an oyster over a clam any day, especially a raw oyster. So when I landed an invitation to an oyster roast in Charleston, South Carolina recently, I had two thoughts. First, "Yay, free oysters!" (they normally cost me about $3 a pop at my favorite oyster bars in New York City); And second, "Oh no, cooked oysters." Its not that I have anything inherently against cooking shellfish, it's just I could see no way to improve on the briny beauties by cooking them, especially not Oysters-Rockefeller-style, which is often overcooked and overpriced even at discerning steak houses.

But, as a cultural experience (especially one related to food) should never be missed, I gratefully accepted. When I arrived, I nearly fell over in my flip-flops when I saw three giant plastic containers full of oysters the hostess had collected that morning. My internal conflicts rose again. "Yay, free oysters!" and then, "Just how many cooked oysters can one person eat?" Just next to them was a 3-foot high pot that I knew better as a deep fryer for turkeys, which I quickly gathered was all that stood between me and an endless flood of mollusks. I stood back curiously as the gents set up two saw horses with a long sheet of plywood over the top, then covered it with newspaper. Next came the gloves, oyster shuckers, bottled cocktail sauce and row after row of saltine crackers. And then, with great trepidation, I watched as four dozen oysters were thrown into the deep fryer that, instead of oil, held steaming water (View image).

Like most cooks, I tend to be suspicious when others are cooking my food, so I stood very near by, certain someone would overcook the whole bunch. But within minutes the host confidently rescued the first batch of gurgling oysters, struggling to preserve their precious liquor as they tumbled onto the paper (View image). Eager to prove I belonged, I dove in and heartily shucked my first steamed oyster. I watched as others layered them with crackers and sauce, but instinct told me take it back straight from the shell. Close eyes, plug nose, I thought, as I tilted my head back with a forced smile. To my surprise, a warm and pleasantly plump oyster slid down toward my throat, still rich with the flavor of the sea that seemed to burst just as I swallowed.

I was an instant convert. I stood still, shucking sweet juicy oysters, one after another, until I was nearly sick. I even took a turn at manning the oyster pot ( View image). I'm not sure how many I polished off, but I've since been told my performance was near legendary. They say it was the sheer numbers, and my refusal to dilute my oysters with condiments, and for my unwillingness to back down from repeated dares to take an oyster shot (two oysters in a shot of vodka with a splash of Tabasco). Hey, it's a cultural experience! I wouldn't recommend the latter, which is not for the weak, but whichever way you take your oyster, never forget to thank that first brave soul who dug into the bivalve and found a pearl, or rather a gem. And I'll never forget to thank my friends in South Carolina who taught me that there is more than one way to eat an oyster. Aw shucks.

Sarah Copeland, Ostreanarian, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:36 PM | Comments (1)

August 20, 2007

Good Eats

By now you all now I'm a sucker for kids, and especially the kids I met in South Africa, like the students from Meetseshella High School. Last October, I visited the school's culinary program, where students run a tiny restaurant for the community. I was touched as they donned their disposable aprons and timidly lined up next to me, eager to learn everything they could about cooking, nutrition and presentation. Within an hour we are all working fluidly side by side, sharing their limited resources, and their endless ideas. They were incredibly thoughtful hosts and learners, and it was exciting to stand back and watch them prepare dishes full of love and creativity. Over the meal, I listening to each of them tell me how they planned to use what they learned, either as building blocks for a career in culinary arts, or simply just to help bring better nutrition into their family homes (which in many cases were a two hour walk from the school). And as I listened, I hoped I would have more opportunities to share with them.

Ten months later, I was thrilled to get this photo, along with a thank you note for a box of goodies my department and I sent them full of cookbooks, cooking demonstrations and new aprons. It arrived a few months late (it turns out it took a slight detour in Botswana), but it ended up in the right hands, the future chefs of South Africa! I can't wait to see what they do in the coming years!

The people I met in Africa are always on my mind, and I'm continually looking for ways to let them know I haven't forgotten them. Lately I’ve been inspired by my friends and colleagues in the food business, who are also busy thinking of creative ways to send love and hope to the communities they care about.

Last April, food writer Andrea Strong started Dining for Darfur as a response to the atrocities in Darfur. Now she is pairing up with T Edward Wines and New York restaurants Blue Ribbon, Cookshop and Hill Country for a charity wine tasting to raise awareness and support for the victims of the genocide in Darfur. The event will feature artisan wines from around the world and signature dishes from each of the restaurants. 100 percent of the proceeds from the tickets sales go directly to aid in Darfur. [Event details: August 21 from 6pm to 9pm at The ] That's what I call Good Eats.

There are dozens of other chef-driven initiatives I'd love to share with you in the months to come, such as the Tap Project and Culinary Corps, and of course Share Our Strength, which I hope will inspire each of you to do your part to spread good food, and good will.

Sarah Copeland, Good Food Emissary, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 1:59 PM | Comments (2)

July 31, 2007

Sweet Shots

There are few things that get me going more than food on film (except of course, food itself). In fact, it is through photography that I came to food, years ago while working as an assistant photo editor at O, the Oprah Magazine (but that's another story....). Lately Mory (food stylist extraordinaire) and I have been documenting our recipes with beautiful still-life and how-to photographs that we hope will inspire you to get reaquainted with your kitchen (and give you the tangible skills to back you up). It's is an incredibly collaborative process, with me behind the lens and Mory behind the tweezers. We change lenses, angles, bowls and spoons until we both agree on the shot. Then we often get carried away, documenting every drip, smudge and smear before we accidentally slip a spoon into our steaming nectarine cobbler, ending our photo frenzy in a feast.

Since we had such a hard time editing our last shoot down to just six photos for our Summer Fruit Desserts, here are a few of my favorite outtakes.

Sarah Copeland, Food Photographer, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 6:59 PM | Comments (1)

Respect Your Elders

In England, it is said that summer has not begun until the elder plant is in bloom. When they're ripe, the elder's deep purple berries are turned into elderberry wine, syrups and preserves all over Europe (and were once used as hair dye by the Romans). It's the white blossoms, elderflowers, that really get me going. They are used to make everything from liquor to vinegars, but I love their heady flavor best in elderflower syrup. Last month, I came across a bottle of elderflower syrup left over from Iron Chef and casually begin tipping it into everything from iced tea to seven minute icing to great success.

A week later, on a stroll through peak season at the farmer's market, the bite-sized bright red local strawberries seemed to jump out at me. I was reminded that in Northern Illinois, where I grew up, the tiny strawberries that grew wild in my family's backyard were the ultimate symbol that summer had begun. They began popping up around my birthday, and were gone by summer solstice a week later. So it seemed fitting to marry them in a sweet summer trifle made with elderflower cream, in honor of summer, and the Brits (who gave us the trifle). The result is an ethereal treat that draws crowds and commands the center of any summer table (and doesn't even require you to turn on the oven!)

The season is fast fleeting, but we've got you covered with five other delicious summer fruit desserts that will carry you all the way through pear season this fall.

Sweet of us, don't you think?

You can order elderflower syrup online, but don’t worry if you can't find it. Lychee syrup, strained from canned lychees, makes a wonderful substitute.

Sarah Copeland, Elderflower Aficionado, Food Network Kitchens

Posted by Food Network at 5:47 PM