Everyone has certain foods they can’t resist and quince is one of mine. When this fall fruit appears, usually in October, I immediately stock up. I’ve heard (but find it hard to believe) that quince is not very popular in this country. Although they're related to apples and pears, I’ve got to admit, quince is definitely not as user-friendly. Raw, they’re virtually inedible: They’re high in lignins (which make them undigestible), tannins (which make them unpleasantly astringent) and phenols (which cause them to brown quickly when exposed to air). OK, maybe I'm beginning to understand their outsider status.

So, what do I do with this obstinate fruit? First, I leave them on a counter for several days which perfumes the air with a clean, fruity scent. Quinces smell amazing — they have been used around the world for centuries as room fresheners. I then cook them, which takes a minimum of 1 1/2 hours. Quince improves dramatically with a long, slow cooking process. An intense fruity flavor emerges, it becomes tender, and most remarkably, it changes color from yellowish white to a distinctly rosy gold. I usually use some variation of the following recipe:

Honey-Baked Quince Slices
Adapted from Elizabeth Schneider’s Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables

4 medium quinces, about 2 pounds
4 tablespoons fragrant, light honey
2 tablespoons lime juice
4 tablespoons water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Quarter and peel quinces and remove seeds*. Cut each quarter into quarters, toss with honey, lime juice and water and put in a baking dish. Cover tightly with foil. Bake in center of oven for one hour, until slices are soft and translucent.

Remove the foil, raise heat to 425 degrees F and bake until slices are a rosy gold and syrup is slightly thickened, 20 to 30 minutes.

Before going in the oven

After 1 1/2 hours of cooking

* Quince syrup, made from the seeds and peels, is used as a home remedy for sore throats and upset stomachs. Toss peels and seeds into a heavy saucepan, cover with water and simmer for one hour. Strain, mix with honey to taste, and refrigerate. The peels are high in pectin and the seeds contain mucilage, giving the syrup a jelly-like consistency. The syrup will last for weeks tightly covered in the fridge. Simply sip, or mix with hot water for a soothing tea.

So, besides a home remedy, what do you get for your troubles? Today, I made an open-faced sandwich on a whole wheat walnut toast from Amy’s Bread, melted a little Cabrales cheese over it and topped it with the honey-baked quince slices — it was outrageously delicious. During fall and winter, I keep cooked quince in my fridge (a batch will last for a couple of weeks) and add them to pancakes, apple pies, fruit syrups and cheese platters. I’ve also heard it’s great in lamb stews.

What do you like to do with quince?