I don’t understand why more people aren’t crazy about Concord grapes. In fact, I’m the only person I know who really likes them (If you're a fellow Concord grape lover — please chime in!)

My husband tells me it’s an acquired taste, but I actually think it is the complete opposite — a willing suspension of any evolved palate whatsoever. Concord grapes are totally lacking in any sophistication or nuance — it is pure, unadulterated, in-your-face grape flavor (I believe the oenological term is actually "foxy"). Maybe part of Concord grapes’ bad PR is unfamiliarity — most modern-day grape-eaters are used to Thompson seedless and Red Globe, and Concord grapes have a remarkably short season. You only see them for about three months starting at the end of summer, which endears them to me even more. When I bought them this weekend at my farm stand, the teenager at the cash register asked what I do with them. "Eat them?" I hesitantly responded. Well, actually I did more than that eat them this time — I made grape juice.

I followed Deborah Madison’s Fresh Grape Juice with Lemon Verbena from her cookbook Local Flavors (one of my top 10 favorite cookbooks, by the way).

Fresh Grape Juice with Lemon Verbena
Makes about 1 quart

3 to 4 pounds grapes
Simple syrup
Soda water
1 lemon, sliced
Lemon verbena, lemon basil, or mint sprigs

Special equipment: food mill

1. Rinse grapes well under running water, plucking them off the stems as you do so. Don't worry about getting rid of every bit of stem — the food mill will do most of the work.

2. Put all the grapes in a wide, heavy pot. Add 1 cup water, turn the heat to high, and cover the pan. Once it starts to boil, lower the heat to medium and cook for 15 minutes. Pass them through the food mill set over a bowl.

3. Taste and sweeten it with the syrup if needed. When you’ve got it as sweet as you like, pour it into a jar and refrigerate. Serve over ice mixed with soda water, lemon slices and herb sprigs.

My friends and I were all really impressed with how good this drink was — not too sweet, lovely color, refreshing. I’m always on the lookout for grown-up non-alcoholic drinks, and this is one I would be thrilled to receive at a party or restaurant. And as a nutritionist, I’m psyched that it most likely contains copious amounts of resveratrol, the heart-healthy phytonutrient that occurs in red wine. To your health!